Learning to surf in Santa Monica
After an hour and a precious handful of successful rides, my legs and arms are on fire, my feet are numb and sand has collected in every bend of my wetsuit. And I just want to keep running back into the surf…. ‘When did you start learning to surf?’ my future travel companions might ask. And I’ll say, ‘A few years back, in Santa Monica, California.
-Canadian Geographic, August 23, 2017